நம் வீட்டில் வைக்ககூடிய மர பொருள்கள் அனைத்தும் நம்மால் செய்ய முடியும் இதற்க்கு தேவையான சாமான்கள் மரம் அறுக்கும் இயந்திரம்Trilling (machine .cutting machine .past, silicon)
,அளவுகோல்(அளவு மீட்டர் ) கீழ் கண்ட படம் பார்த்து செய்யவும் .
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If you’re like most people, you’d probably like more storage space for your books and collectibles. If you’ve also been looking for a place to put one of the new wide-screen televisions, then this cabinet has everything you desire. The cherry wood and Craftsman-styled details give it a warm traditional look.
This cabinet makes extensive use of biscuit joinery, which keeps assembly of the cabinets and the miters on the baseboard and on the crown straightforward. It’s built in eight main sections (Fig. A, below), each built separately and then jointed together when all are complete. This approach makes it possible to build the large cabinet even in a fairly small shop, as long as you have a large enough area to do final assembly. In the shop where I worked, I found room along the garage door.
The TV opening in this cabinet is 60 in. wide by 40 in. tall by 21 in. deep. This space is big enough for most of the newer LCD and DLP 50-in. wide-screen projection TVs and even some that are bigger. A word of caution, though: TV dimensions vary widely from model to model. If you plan to build this cabinet, I recommend you buy your TV first or at least get the exact dimensions. Then you can adjust the dimensions of the TV opening, if necessary. Pay particular attention to your TV’s rear ventilation requirements and adjust the dimension on your cabinet as needed.
Lay Out Your Plywood FirstPick the best looking sheets for the sides of the lower side cabinets and sides of the upper side cabinets (C2, D2). These pieces are arranged on the plywood layout (see Fig. M, below), so the grain matches when the cabinets are assembled. I used birch plywood for the inner parts of the lower cabinet rather than cherry plywood and saved about $250 on materials. When stained, the color of the birch plywood becomes very similar to the stained cherry plywood. Build the Base Assembly1. Assemble the base frame with biscuits and brads (Fig. B, below). The front and back frames (A1, A2) need to be spliced with patches (A3), because the base is more than 8 ft. long. The double stretcher boards (A4) provide support for the ends of the top panels (A5, A6, Photo 1). 2. When the frame is assembled, add the cherry baseboard (A7, A8, Photo 2). 3. Rout the chamfer on the baseboard (Fig. B, Detail 1, above). Build the Lower Center Cabinet4. Cut out the cabinet bottom, top, sides and partitions (B1, B2, B3, Fig. C, below). 5. In the side panels, cut a groove for the back (B4, Fig. C, Detail 2). 6. Cut slots for the biscuit joinery. 7. Edge-band the front edge of the top, bottom and side panels, but not the partitions (see Sources, below). 8. Sand the inside surfaces of the plywood parts—it will save you time and hassle later on. 9. Assemble the parts with biscuits and screws. Use masking tape next to the joints to catch any glue that squeezes out. 10. Check that the cabinet is square. Use offset clamps to pull it square, if needed. (Photo 3). Slide the back in and secure it with screws. 11. Trim the edge banding (Photo 4) so the stiles (B5) can be glued tightly against the partitions (B3). First trace the location by holding the stile in place. Then cut on the line with a knife, heat up the cut section of edge banding and peel it off. 12. Glue and clamp the stiles to the partitions. 13. Glue the edge strip (B6) to the countertop (B7) and rout a chamfer on the top edge and ends (Fig. C, Detail 1). 14. Attach the countertop to the lower center cabinet with screws. Build the Lower Side Cabinets15. Cut out and assemble the parts (C1 through C4) for the lower side cabinets (Fig. D, below). Note that the cabinet sides (C2, D2) facing the TV opening have a groove on both sides (Fig. F, below). One groove is for the backs of the cabinets and the other is for the TV opening’s back panel (E1). 16. Add edge strips (C5, C6, C7) to the countertop (C8) and chamfer the top corners. Also notch the inner corner of the countertop for the tongue of the TV panel (Fig. F). 17. Use connector bolts to join the lower side cabinets to the lower center cabinet ((Photos 5 and 6); see Sources, below). 18. Next, join this trio of cabinets to the base with connector bolts and threaded inserts (Photo 7). The side cabinets should overlap the baseboard by 1/16 in. (Fig. B, Detail 1, below). This overlap hides the seam between the baseboard and the top panel (A5) of the base assembly. 19. To accurately locate the threaded inserts in the base, I found it best to drill through both the bottoms of the lower cabinets and the base at the same time using a 1/4-in. drill bit, which is the right size for the coupler bolt. Then slide the cabinets aside and enlarge the holes in the base to 3/8 in. for the threaded inserts. Build the TV Opening’s Back Panel20. Because the TV opening’s back panel (E1) is 60-1/4 in. wide, you’ll need to edge-glue two pieces of plywood together (Photo 8). When carefully biscuited, these two pieces will glue up flush and only require a little sanding to knock down any ridge between the pieces. 21. When the back panel is the correct size, rout a rabbet along the top edge and two sides (Fig. E, below). The resulting tongue fits into the grooves on the sides of the side cabinets and the bottom of the upper center cabinet. This tongue-and-groove joint holds the TV opening’s back panel in place and prevents any gaps around its perimeter that might be caused by it or the side cabinets being slightly out of square. 22. Slide the TV opening’s back panel into place between the lower side cabinets. Build the Upper Side Cabinets23. Cut and assemble the parts for the upper side cabinets (D1 through D5, Fig. D). Only the front edge of the bottom (D1) needs edge banding. The edges of the cabinet sides (D2) and top (D1) are covered by the three-sided face frame. 24. Use coupler bolts and nuts to attach the upper side cabinets to the lower side cabinets. Sandwich the countertop between them (Photo 9). Build the Upper Center Cabinet25. Cut out and assemble the parts (F1, F2, Fig. G, below). 26. Slide in the back panels (F3, F4), and attach with screws. The back is in two parts so the grain can run vertically. 27. Assemble the face frame (F5, F6) using dowels. 28. Attach the face frame to the cabinet. The face frame should overhang by 1/32 in. on each end (Photo 10). This ensures that these stiles pull up tight to the upper side cabinets’ stiles when they are joined together. 29. Position the upper center cabinet between the upper side cabinets. (Photo 11). The groove on the bottom of the upper center cabinet (Fig. G, below) fits onto the tongue on the top of the TV opening’s back panel. 30. Clamp the upper center cabinet to the upper side cabinets and drill for the coupler bolts. 31. Install the coupler bolts and remove the clamps. Build the Doors and DrawersThe doors and drawer fronts are all inset flush with the face frames. Inset doors are more work to fit and install, but they provide a nice clean look to the final cabinet. For a complete description of how to fit and install inset doors, see “How to Hang Inset Doors”. 32. Rout the rails and stiles (B8, B9, B11, B12, C10, C11, D7, D8, Photo 12 and Fig. H). I used a router bit with a chamfered profile to go along with the chamfered details on the baseboard and countertops (see Sources, below). 33. Cut out the panels (B10, B13) for the lower center cabinet doors and drawer fronts and assemble them. 34. Build the drawer boxes and install them on full-extension slides (see Sources, below). Add the drawer fronts. 35. Assemble the door frames for the upper and lower side cabinet and rout out the back lip to make room for the glass (Photo 13). 36. Mill out strips for the grilles (D9, D10) and cut the lap joints using a dado blade (Photo 14). 37. Fit the grilles into the upper side doors and glue in the filler strips (D11 through D14, Fig. H, left; Photo 15). Don’t glue the grille to the door frame. Leaving them removable makes final sanding and finishing of the doors and grilles much easier. The glass will hold the grilles in place after it has been installed with retainer clips (see Sources, below). 38. Drill for door and drawer pulls (see Sources). Build the Crown Assembly39. The crown molding attaches to a mounting board and glue blocks, creating a single assembly (Fig. L, below), that is than attached to the top of the other cabinets. 40. A lip on its bottom side fits over the top of the cabinets the way a lid rests on a shoe box (Fig. J, below). For this reason, it’s important that the mounting board (made of G1 and G2) be correctly sized. I’ve provided “in a perfect world” dimensions in the (Cutting List, below), but you should take a measurement off the top of your cabinet and adjust the size of your mounting board accordingly. The length is the most critical measurement. If it’s too short, the crown assembly will simply not go on, and you will have to do some creative chiseling or scraping to make it to fit. In fact, I recommend making your mounting board 1/32 in. to 1/16 in. longer than the overall measurement at your upper cabinets. 41. When you have the mounting board cut, add the front and back frames (G4, G5, G6). Pay special attention that the distance between the frames and the mounting board’s ends and front is 1-1/2 in. (Fig. J, below). Any variation here will affect the position of the angled glue blocks, which can be added next (Photo 16). Attach them by rubbing them into a generous squirt of glue and letting the glue dry completely before you attach the crown molding. 42. While the glue is setting, cut out the crown molding (G9, G10). 43. The compound miters on the crown molding are most easily done on a compound miter saw. A tablesaw would work, but you will need to build a hold-down jig for your miter gauge to hold the long front molding firmly while sawing. And you will also need to support the long end that hangs off your tablesaw. 44. On your miter saw, set the miter angle to 35.26 degrees and the bevel angle to 30 degrees. Make some test cuts and see how the pieces fit. You may need to adjust your angles slightly to get a perfect fit. 45. After you’ve fit the miters, it’s time to slot the ends for biscuits (Photo 17). 46. Glue and clamp the crown molding to the mounting board and angled glue blocks (Photo 18). Hooked clamping blocks (Fig. K, page 58) greatly simplify this task by giving you a flat place to clamp against and by applying even pressure to the molding. 47. When the glue has dried, the crown assembly can be lifted into place and screwed down (Photo 19). Complete the Finishing Touches48. Drill grommet holes in the cabinets and cut wire and ventilation openings in the TV back panel and cabinet backs as needed for your specific TV and other equipment. Now that you’ve built your cabinet, it’s time to take it apart for final sanding, staining and finishing. |  Photo 1: Start by assembling the base. Brad-nailing makes quick work of fastening panels to the frame. Along the front edge, however, I use clamps to avoid nail holes, which would otherwise show when the lower cabinet doors are open. Photo 2: Add the solid-wood baseboard to the base frame using glue and clamps. No need for nails here. The mitered corner contains a single biscuit that helps with alignment and strengthens the joint. Photo 3: Check that your cabinet boxes are square. Both corner-to-corner diagonal measurements should be the same. If they’re not, raise the clamps on the corner with the long dimension and apply pressure until both diagonal measurements match. Photo 4: Trim away the edge banding where the stiles attach to the top and bottom panels. This allows the stiles to be tightly glued to the partitions. Photo 5: Attach the lower cabinets to each other and then to the base. Connector bolts make it easy to disassemble and reassemble the cabinet for finishing and moving. Photo 6: Use connector bolts with nuts for the cabinet-to-cabinet connection. Photo 7: Use connector bolts and threaded inserts for the cabinet-to-base connections. Photo 8: Assemble the center back panel. It’s so wide that’s it’s made of two pieces of plywood edge-glued together. Biscuits help with alignment. Masking tape keeps glue off the face of the plywood and simplifies cleanup. Photo 9: Use connector bolts to attach the upper side cabinets to the lower side cabinets. The countertop is sandwiched between them. Photo 10: Glue the face frame to the upper center cabinet. The stiles overhang the cabinet by a small amount. This ensures a tight joint between these stiles and the stiles of the upper side cabinets. Photo 11: Install the upper center cabinet. Use support boards to hold the center cabinet in position. Join it to the upper side cabinets using connector bolts and nuts. Photo 12: Rout the rails and stiles for the doors. Featherboards keep the parts snug against the fence and table for accurate routing. I used a rail-and-stile router bit set with a chamfer profile to match the chamfers on the baseboard and countertops. Photo 13: Rout a rabbet in the back inside edge of the doors that receive glass. Chisel the rounded corners square. Photo 14: Cut the lap joints in the grille parts using a dado blade. A notched stop block guarantees the location of the lap joint will be the same on all the grilles. The notch also holds the grille part against the saw table. Photo 15: Glue filler strips into the rabbet in the back of the upper door frames. The filler strips are the same thickness as the grille and will leave a shallow rabbet for the glass. Photo 16: Attach the angled glue blocks to the inner frame and mounting board. The angled blocks will support the crown molding. Photo 17: Slot the ends of the crown molding for biscuits. Biscuits’ versatility really becomes apparent when you have a challenging joint, such as this compound miter, to assemble. Photo 18: Glue the crown molding to the mounting board. The hooked clamp blocks make it easy to hold the crown in place. Use the end crown molding to check the alignment of the front molding. Photo 19: Screw the crown assembly to the tops of the upper cabinets. After all the doors, drawers and hardware have been fitted, take the cabinet sections apart for a final sanding, staining and finishing. |
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